Dryer repair guide: heating, drum, and venting fixes that actually work
A dryer that won't heat or won't tumble is fixable 80% of the time for under $250. The trick is figuring out which of the three core failure modes you're dealing with — heat, motion, or airflow — before any tech walks through the door.
No heat: the heating element story
On electric dryers, heating element replacement runs $160–$320 with labor. Thermal fuses ($80–$150) blow when airflow is restricted — usually a clogged vent. If a tech replaces a thermal fuse but doesn't check the vent line, expect the new fuse to fail in 6–12 months. Always have venting cleaned when replacing a heat-related part.
No tumble: belt and motor
Drum belt ($110–$210) is the cheapest tumble fix and accounts for ~60% of no-spin calls. Idler pulley ($90–$170) usually goes around the same time. Motor replacement ($350–$620) is borderline on dryers over 8 years old — at that price plus age, replacement often makes more sense.
Gas dryer specifics
Gas valve coil replacement ($180–$340) is a common gas-dryer fix when the dryer tumbles but won't heat. Igniter replacement ($140–$260) is another common one. Gas dryers cost slightly more to repair on average but use about 60% less energy than electric — factor that into the replace-vs-repair math.
The vent issue everyone misses
Reduced dry time, longer cycles, hot exterior — almost always a venting problem, not an appliance problem. Full vent cleaning runs $90–$200 and prevents fires (dryer venting is a leading cause of residential fires, per NFPA data). If you can't remember the last time the vent was cleaned, do that BEFORE calling a repair tech.
Heat issues usually trace to elements, fuses, or vents — the vent often being the actual culprit even when the part is the visible failure. Tumble issues are usually belts. Anything motor-related on a 9+ year old dryer is replacement territory.